There were other Arthurian cities, of course, as well as Camelot. It would be no fun if there were only Camelot: Arthur and his knights needed other castles full of hordes of characters to mix it up a little.
Just such a city was Astolat: alias Shalott.
It was here the lady sat and weaved her web up there in the half-light of a tower, right until the moment fair Lancelot came and smote her heart. Astolat, Shalott, was the home of the faire Elaine, the inspiration for The Lady, and her father Sir Bernard, and her brothers, Lavaine, and Tirre.
What a wondrous place this Astolat, this Shalott, must be, to be sure.
Suffice it to say that I tackled Shalott’s one way system today. I was fleeced by its astronomical car parking charges, and strolled past its Sainsbury’s supermarket and Argos catalogue store.
Prosaic, yes. For Sir Thomas Mallory, in Le Morte D’Arthur, linked Astolat irrevocably with Guildford in Surrey, an ancient Saxon stronghold which clustered round the River Wey. An affluent place, this Guildford: nestling in the heart of Surrey, it was made prosperous by the arrival of the Royal Mint in 978, sacked by William the Conqueror, who built his castle on the hill; and given a passport to riches in 1653, when the Wey was made navigable all the way to the Thames.
The river which once, in legend, held boats with winsome maidens in, was now a highway for prosperous merchants.
I parked at the Shalott multi storey car park, and ventured out with an itinerary. Museum first, castle next. The mist hung low as if at any moment a knight might appear on his white charger, hurtling past Austin Reed’s on his way to an encounter.
But the museum sent me in so many directions, figuratively speaking. It held a glorious hotch-potch of artefacts, from ancient pagan burial jewellery found opposite the city, to a collection of Victorian toys and samplers, and it informed me that PG Wodehouse was born in Shalott, and Lewis Carroll moved in once upon a time, opposite the castle in Castle Street.
Where in Shalott might I find PG Wodehouse, I enquired?
A brisk 15 minutes later I arrived at a tall, thin Victorian house with a couple of roomy estate cars parked in front. A self-effacing plaque declared that this was where my hero was born. I clicked and gawped like a real tourist.
And then I returned back down the hill towards the castle and the same hotch-potch confusion of the museum jumped out from every street and side- alley.
Because it’s all higgledy piggledy, Shalott. History has been parked there a long time, since legend,really; and there’s no use being sentimental about it when people live and work there. New sits next to – and occasionally on top of – old. Buildings are honoured, but must jostle for their place in the city’s incredibly crowded timeline.
The city of Shalott had its dingy aspects,I noted on my potter, but they stood alongside stunning moments left over from history. It was bewildering: the view from the hill revealed four fairytale turrets worthy of Hampton Court; a set of almshouses they call a hospital. I stared at them past an orange digger , parked, poised to redevelop a site on the hill. Ancient churches were flanked by satellite dishes; a centuries old city gate, the Angel Gate, was graced by a street cleaner who had stopped to have a chat on his mobile phone. Every shop’s building was ancient, but they bore labels like Jigsaw, and Whistles, and Café Néro.
Shalott is a 21st century version of heritage, indeed.
I love the architecture. Reminds me of some of the pictures I took during a visit to Chester years ago.
There are some lovely buildings there. Which reminds me: I haven’t been to Chester recently…
Love your Kaleidoscope of pictures that depict the town!!
Thanks Lisa 🙂
It makes a lot of sense that the French have decided to build their hideous shopping parks outside their old towns. That way, the hideous shops remain hideous but functional and the ancient towns remain ancient – ish:)
Ah, the French. They have such style. But those out of town places- they are some of my least favourite places!
Fancy that. 🙂
The things you learn, eh, IE?
Love the pics.
Thanks, Lou. It wasn’t a conventional light, but the mist worked well this once.
A mixture, indeed. One that I would love to see, though. Thanks for the great preview! (All of us thought Shalott was completely mythical.)
As did I, Col, until I started digging online. Good old Mallory.
This is a lovely post. A pleasure to the eye.
Thank you Micheline!
Ah, gratuitous naming conventions. I mean what else are you going to name a street with a castle on it, Fort Street? Here Be Knights Street? Long Haired Girl in the Tower Bored Half to Death Street?
I think not! 😀
Ha! I quite like that last one, Ralfast!
I love Norman architecture. I don’t know why. It makes that period feel more real to me than the art does.
I guess its where they lived, Andra. Brings the whole period home.
I’ve been having a bit of a Camelot feeling lately, Kate, and here you are in Shalot. I like Astalot better than Shalot. I don’t know why. Maybe because I’m hearing it hear for probably the first time. Hmm. At any rate, love your pictures and envy you being there.
Astalot mirrors Camelot, I guess, Penny: I agree. I wonder where Tennyson got Shalott from?
Wonderful, all . . . but I love the wrestling gargoyles! 😀
They are amazing, aren’t they, Nancy?
So it is real! I honestly didn’t know. Speaking of hotch-potch, my knowledge of the Arthurian Cycles soars and dips all over between fascination and downright ignorance. Each time you make reference I’m reminded that I really would enjoy knowing more. I love the photos and would relish such a field trip! I adore the plaque reminding to keep Guildford beautiful. Lovely!
Thanks, Debra 🙂 I’m a TH White fan. Love his version of the stories. Happy reading.
Amazing photos. I want to go to Shalott RIGHT NOW.
Thanks Weebles….it’s worth the explore, the next time you’re on these shores.
Astalot has a nice ring to it, Kate. I’m going to have to look further into the legend of Arthur; I know of the story but not in great detail! Thanks for the inspiration! Great photos as well.
Enjoy your delving, Tom. TH White is a must, if you haven’t read him yet.
I learn so much through your posts, and since I can’t be there myself, this is the next best thing. You always enlighten in a fun way. Thank you so much for that.
Jennifer, what a lovely comment, thank you. I love travel writing in my own back yard.
The “four fairytale turrets” you have photos of remind me of the structures one might see in Moscow. Or, is my architectural sense completely off?
Love the photos. Kate, your writing makes me feel like a tourist who tags along to get a really good story from the guide.
You have me thinking now, Judy: They are completely different cultures but I know what you mean. I wonder if they are from the same era? Off to explore…
I’ve not been to England yet, but if I do, I’ll be asking you for the itinerary!
It would be a pleasure, Tina 🙂 You’d need a while, though!
Thanks for your post! I moved to Shalott only recently, and had only managed to see the multi-storey and the shopping centre so stayed away from the town centre. However, you’ve inspired me to go and seek out some of these buildings.
Oh, how exciting, Lauren!. A Shalott resident. To be honest my mind is still humming with questions: so much to find out…enjoy your exploring.I expect I shall be back soon.
Oh, how exciting, Lauren!. A Shalott resident. To be honest my mind is still humming with questions: so much to find out…enjoy your exploring. I expect I shall be back soon.
Beautiful town, even with the 21st century accoutrements 🙂 Love the lion headed gargoyle, who is it devouring?
That’s my favorite bit also!
Not sure yet, Tammy and Madhu: I have further research to do on the individual buildings. That is one verdant moustache though.
Terrific photos Kate.
Thanks, Tammy 🙂